Restaurant Reviews
Paul Pelt: 'Inn' with the chef
Paul Pelt, executive chef of D.C.'s beloved Tabard Inn restaurant, may look like a rock star or jazz musician, but this is one man who has focused his adult life on the kitchen and its many charms. A native of Chicago, Pelt moved to D.C. to live on Capitol Hill with his dad during his formative years, and hasn't spent much time away from the city since then.
While Pelt may wistfully dream of traveling to far-off lands to explore other cuisines, he is really dedicated to the culinary arts here in the nation's capital, spending most of his waking life pouring over cookbooks and dreaming up memorable fare.
While his dad may have preferred listening to music to cooking, the two still cooked together. By the time Pelt reached adolescence, working at local restaurants, even if just bussing tables, did not seem foreign at all. He remembers one of his first jobs, when he started doing prep work, his boss the chef told him that a line cook would not be in. " 'You have to cook,' " he said the chef told him. " 'And don't mess up or you are out of here.' "
Pelt didn't mess up, but that job eventually led to many others. "I went through lots of places and ate lots of pizzas and bar food," he explained. "But eventually I got to work in the Tabard Inn back in the '90s, and I loved it." His then-boss encouraged the young man to start reading cookbooks, a habit that he has carried on to the present: he admits to owning stacks and stacks of cookbooks. "One of my favorites is 'Thai Street Food' by David Thompson," he says.
After six years there, Pelt moved to Rocky's Cafe in Adams Morgan, owned by a friend. When that closed after four years, Pelt moved back to the Tabard Inn, where he has been cooking since. He began as the executive chef in 2007, and that takes him to the present.
Admittedly, Pelt's creations are simply amazing, and it occurs to an outsider to ask about his source of ideas. "My inspiration," he said. "It is a mixed bag. I read a lot. My favorite foods now are Asian and Italian. ... I like Southern and Caribbean foods." Beyond those influences, Pelt says he will look at an ingredient or several ingredients, and wonder what he would do with it or them. "I try to imagine how something will taste before I even try out a recipe," he said.
Now with many years' experience behind him, Pelt has no regrets about his career choice. But he is sad to know that his dad, who provided him with the initial cooking motivation, did not live long enough to see his son become what he is today.
Food critic Tom Sietsema looks into his mailbag
“Why are restaurants that are so inventive with every other course so reluctant to offer anything interesting at dessert time?” asks Randall Reade. The Washington reader thinks “there is virtually no variety” when it comes to the last course of the meal, which inevitably includes the “usual suspects”: flourless chocolate cake, creme brulee, ice cream or sorbet, apple crumble (or a variation), bread pudding and cheesecake.
Reade has a point. Restaurants dishing up safe dessert selections outnumber the more innovative establishments, such as the Tabard Inn in Dupont Circle, which last month featured chocolate chestnut dacquoise, pear-ginger layer cake and pumpkin-brandy pudding. Pastry chef Huw Griffiths, who changes the inn’s selection weekly, says variety is sometimes curtailed by fear of waste and economic considerations. Unlike, say, leftover meat, most desserts can’t be repurposed, which means pastry chefs have to create confections that “go off the shelf,” he explains. Tried-and-true desserts also tend to be profitable: A creme brulee that costs the kitchen $2 or $3 can be sold for as much as $9 at dinner.
2011 Rammy Winners
The Tabard Inn is the recipient of a 2011 Rammy for the best Upscale Casual Restaurant!